Behind the scenes

Since I was last at the Twelve Apostles (admittedly some time ago now), there have been some changes. I remember a remote, rugged coastline. I think I remember it in winter.

Apparently this stretch of coast is now a premium tourist icon. Red helicopters constantly fly overhead and buses race to overtake each other to snaffle a prime parking position in giant car parks. 

In response to all this interest, the local authorities have come up with a somewhat genius idea to keep people on the official tracks. 

Where new tracks are in danger of being created through the cliff top bush, presumably from people offroading in search of a new photo angle, a post has been erected that makes the danger clear. 

The Lock Ard Gorge was an essential stop on our itinerary as, ever a fan of historical reenactment, I had recently insisted that Luis and I visit the Maritime Museum in Warrnambool. Either my childhood memories are grossing exaggerated or it has seen livelier days. 

It does however contain the Loch Ard peacock and many other relics from the famous wreck so I was keen to salvage something of the outing by going to visit the site of the wreck itself.

By the time we arrived we were a little overtired. Luis took one look and declared that this would be where we were going to eat and recuperate from our early start and the hectic days of packing leading up to it.

So we sat on our camp chairs in the shade of a no doubt perilous overhanging cliff and watched the waves. Waves off the Southern Ocean scouring the far side of the gorge and waves of tourists descending to take pictures of each other as each busload arrived.

The 'star jump of holiday joy' seemed to be a favourite with up to four attempts in action at any one time. It seems tricky. You have to time it just so, so that you capture, in focus, a flattering hair flying peak-of-jump moment. It seems harder still if you want one of more friends also in the shot. And when the guy taking it is just some guy you happened to be sitting next to on the bus and you have 20 minutes down in the gorge before you have to climb back onto the bus again, it's a tense negotiation to keep him retaking the same shot until you are happy with it.

From our corner behind the scenes we stirred our stew from a can on the camp stove we had balanced on a rock in the sand and felt very relaxed.